Dermaplaning 101
/ Epidermal Leveling

Debi Mezistrano-Boer


Welcome to Dermaplaning A very popular procedure for exfoliating in medical Spas Considered a medical procedure and only should be practiced by licensed professionals under medical supervision. Enhances other laser and light based procedures, also enhances product penetration. Helps with acne scars and pigmentation.


  • History
  • What is it?
  • Who needs it?
  • Benefits
  • Contraindications
  • Risks
  • Technique


  • Practiced by Dermatologists and Plastic surgeons for over 40 years.
  • Originally performed as an alternative to chemical exfoliation
  • Biomedic was first skincare company to integrate dermaplaning into their micropeel treatment.
  • Patented a stainless steel surgical blade in the shape of a “butter knife”and became known as the butter blade.
  • Word spread quickly about proven results/ more aestheticians incorporating it into their skin care programs
  • Today only licensed estheticians  under a doctors license can perform procedure.
  • Biomedic is now Skinceuticals, and patent has expired on blades.

What is it?

  • Dermaplaning is also known as Epidermal leveling
  • Physical exfoliation utilizing a sterile surgical blade
  • Carefully remove the topmost layers of dead skin cells 
  • Removes fine vellus hairs (Peach Fuzz) that can trap dirt and oil and leave the complexion looking dull
  • Usually can be used alone or in conjunction with chemical peels
  • A blade is held at a 45 degree angle to taut skin and moved in a manner similar to shaving.

Who is a good candidate? Patient selection

  • Uneven skin tone:
    blotchy skin fom sun damage or other assaults on the skin can be evened out over time
  • Acne scarring:
    Improves collagen which in turn lessens the look of acne scarring
  • Fine lines:
    improvement of collagen and texture will help reduce fine lines
  • Good for all skin types:
    any color of skin is a good candidate
  • Extra hair on face that is too light for lasercan be removed temporarily
  • Can be used on pregnant or nursing clients



  • Leaves skin feeling “baby”s Butt” smooth
  • Refines fine lines and pores
  • Helps reduce scarring
  • Removes dead skin cells and the fine vellous facial hair (“peach fuzz”) that can trap excess dirt and oil and leave the complexion looking dull.
  • Helps stimulate collagen regrowth
  • Speeds up skin cell turnover
  • Helps reduce pigmentation
  • Improves over all  function of the skin
    Now that BioMedic’s (now SkinCeuticals) patent has expired and other companies have been manufacturing the #10S blades, we would expect that it would be the only blade used in the marketplace. Unfortunately the blades  being manufactured now tend to dull quickly.  You can stil purchase good blades from Skinceuticals or Societe skin care.


  • Sunburn:
    Recent sun exposure  makes the skin too fragile and irritated. Also the increase in melanin and the procedure can have an adverse effect and cause  hyperpigmentation
  • Accutane use:
    in the last 6 months Accutane is an internal drug  for severe acne and oily. when taken it dries up the oil  glands making the skin fragile and dry. Once stopped it stays in the system for 6 months so no harsh exfoliation should be done as it can injure and tear the skin.
  • Steroid use:
    no steroids 3 week prior to treatment as the skin is thinner and more irritated and can be injured with dermaplaning
  • A large amount of deep wrinkles or mature thin skin  Dermaplaning can catch on deeper wrinles or tear thin skin so should not be used on this client
  • Recent chemical peel (within prior 7 days)Let the skin sensitivity  normalize and also let the skin shed naturally. You need to wait at least 10 days to 2 weeks before dermaplaning
  • Systemic conditions that impede wound healing. Such as uncontrolled diabetes lupus erythemosis, collagen vascular disease


  • Bleeding  due to nicks or cuts
  • Skin sensitivity
    Don’t want this result!

Side Effects

  • Skin sensitivity
  • Redness
  • Breakouts (temporary)


  1. Wash face.
  2. Do a double cleanse.
  3. Use acetone to wipe away oils prior to blading.
  4. Use a #10s or #14s butter blade.
  5. Hold skin taut
  6. Blade in one direction usually towards you.
  7. Hold blade at 45degree angle.
  8. Light touch not too heavy handed.
  9. Don’t dermaplane nose area or over boney areas.
  10. When finished with procedure you can add a light chemical peel.
  11. Finish with cool wipes
  12. Apply moisture and sunblock
  13. Go over instructions for home with client.

After Care

  • Wash with mild cleanser
  • No irritants on face for 5 days
  • No direct sun exposure for 1o days
  • No exfoliation for 10 days
  • Wear sun block daily
  • No strenuous exercise for 24 hours
  • No hot tubs, saunas, tanning booths etc.